Brother PE 770 and Embroidery Hoop Package = A Perfect Combination

Now get an Embroidery Hoop Package for  50% Off with Purchase of Brother PE-770 Embroidery Machine!

This package contains an Extra Large 5" x 12" 3-Position Embroidery Hoop, a Large 5" x 7" Embroidery Hoop, a Small 4" x 4" Embroidery Hoop, an Extra Small 1" x 2 1/2" Pocket Hoop, 7 Spools of Polystar Embroidery Thread and a pair of embroidery stork scissors, a retail value of over $300, all for only $50.00! The Elipse Embroidery Hoop Package provides the user with High-Quality, Durable Hoops at a low cost, the perfect combination!

The revolutionary Brother PE-770 Embroidery Machine will open the door to a whole new world of possibilities, with many features including:

• Large 5" x 7" Embroidery Field
• Built-In USB Flash Drive Port
• Embroiders at 650 Stitches Per Minute
• Backlit LCD Touch Screen
• Automatic Needle Threader
• Quick Set Bobbin System
• F.A.S.T. Bobbin Winding System
• 136 Built-In Embroidery Designs
• 6 Built-In Embroidery Fonts
• Simple On-Screen Editing
• On-Screen Instructions
• Step By Step Instructions

The Brother PE770 Embroidery Machine and Embroidery Hoop Package will give you the ability to take you embroidery and creative abilities to the next level, take your creative endevours to new heights with this amazing new combination.

Click Here to See More Information on the -> Brother PE770

Embroidery Hooping – To Hoop or Not to Hoop?

For the most part the best option is to hoop you fabric. By hooping your fabric you are ensuring that the fabric is secure and stable for your various embroidery projects. Of course there are exceptions to this piece of advice, a few fabrics that are better suited for not being hooped includes:

• Velvet
• Satin Faced Silk
• Thick Piled Terrycloth
• Corduroy
• Velour
• Expensive Silks
• Fine Linens

It is a good idea to test a fabric for hoop-ability by testing a small corner of delicate fabrics before you hoop your project.

What is Wash-Away Stabilizer Used for? Read below to find out:

What is Wash-Away Stabilizer Used for? Read below to find out: Wash-Away Stabilizer needs to be washed out of the embroidery project after it is complete. This method of stabilizing is effective for a large variety of projects including working with a delicate or sheer fabric as well as projects such as:

• Making Lace with Fabrics
• Off the Edge Sewing
• Freestanding Lace
• Transparent Fabrics
• Delicate Fabrics
• Free Motion Stitching
• Thread Painting
• Badges
• Patches
• Cutwork
• Applique
• Heirloom
• Towels

What is Heat-Away Stabilizer Used for? Read below to find out:

Heat-Away Stabilizers disintegrate, melt away, and brush off the project when the heat of an iron is applied to the stabilizer. Some of the situations where Heat-Away Stabilizers are optimal include as a topping, making lace or as a lightweight backing. Additional projects ideal for the usage of Heat Away Stabilizer includes:

• Monogramming
• Cutwork
• Edges
• 3-D Applique
• Lace
• Decrative Stitching
• Battenburg Lace
• Buttonholes
• Special Effects
• Velvet
• Corduroy
• Delicate Fabrics

The 6 Main Reasons for Choosing a Cut-Away Stabilizer.

What are the 6 Times When it is Best to use a Cut-Away Stabilizer? Read below to find out:

1. When you are embroidering a project which requires - 'Permanent Stabilization.'
2. When it is essential that all pulling is eliminated and there are absolutely no sagging stitches.
3. When you are looking for a stabilizer which will provide superior stretch resistance.
4. When you are looking for a stabilizer which can guarantee reliability, Cut-Away Stabilizer continues to stabilize projects even when continually laundered and worn.
5. When stitching dense embroidery designs, Cut Away Stabilizer is the optimal stabilizer to use as is it will not tear.
6. When embroidering a project on a fabric which can be considered 'unstable' such as a knit fabric, Cut Away Stabilizer is the best choice in stabilizer as the fabric will not stretch when embroidering

What are the Best Situations to Use Tear Away Stabilizer?

Tear Away Stabilizer is perfect for situations such as:

1. When embroidering on stable fabrics such as canvas, lightweight cottons and silks
2. When working with sheer fabrics, Tear Away Stabilizer is a good option - because it is easily removed when embroidery is complete.
3. When creating projects which are 'in the hoop'.
4. When creating 'quick projects' - when compared to other stabilizers, Tear-away stabilizer is one of the easiest and fastest stabilizers to remove from your projects.

Embroidery Placement Chart for Clothing- Part 2

Embroidery Placement Chart for Clothing- Part 2
ITEM	PLACEMENT
Pajamas	Draw line straight down from where shoulder seam meets collar seam.   Find center of armholes, from armpit to shoulder, and draw line straight across. If you place this line too low, the design may go across a woman's breast area.   As an alternative, you can draw a horizontal line at the level of the second button or snap. On a V-neck shirt, you can draw a horizontal line even with the bottom of the V. Center of design should go where lines intersect.
Skirts	Place designs along the hemline, with bottom of the designs 1/2 to 1  inch above the hemmed edge.   Print out designs before embroidering, and place them around skirt to figure out equal distances between designs.  Use a similar distance between bottom of design and edge of fabric, to make placement appear more logical.  If distance between designs is greater than 3-4 inches, then it won't look very good to have the designs that far above the edge of the hem, so forget this idea, and just put them 1/2 to 1 inch above hemline.

Embroidery Placement Chart for Clothing- Part 1

Embroidery Placement Chart for Clothing- Part 1
ITEM	PLACEMENT
Shorts Leg	Mark the center front of the left leg.  Mark the point that's halfway between your first mark and the side seam.  That second mark should be the center of your design.  The bottom of the design should be 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the hem stitching on the lower edge of the shorts.
Pants Leg	The design should be on the left leg at the crotch level, and centered between the side seam and the inseam.   Alternatively, the right edge of the design can be 2 inches from the side seam, at the crotch level.
Capri Pants	Encircle cuff or go partway up the outside seam.

Embroidery Placement Chart for Shirts - Part 3

Embroidery Placement Chart for Shirts - Part 3
ITEM	PLACEMENT	OTHER CONSIDERATIONS
Collar point	Bottom of monogram should be 1/4 inch above the top of the buttonhole.	Monograms should be 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch high.  The collar may need to be removed and replaced.
Turtle Neck Collars	Halfway between the center neck front and the left shoulder seam.  The bottom of the design should be 1/2 to 3/4 inch above the edge.	Should be 1/4 to 1 inch tall, depending on size of collar.  Follow the direction of the edge, don't try to turn at an angle so it's straight when you're looking at it.
Shirt Placket	Centered between 2nd and 3rd buttonholes.	Should be 1/4 to 3/8 inch tall.
Shirt Pocket For designs that are on the pocket itself	Top of monogram or name should be 1/4" to 1/2" from the top edge of the pocket, and centered between the left and right edges of the pocket.  Alternatively, if the pocket isn't attached, you can put a crest or other design on the center of the pocket, then attach it to the shirt.	Monograms should be 1/4 to 3/8 inch tall.
Shirt Sleeves Short Sleeves	Place 1/4 to 1/2 inch above hem stitching on edge of sleeve.  Center design directly opposite the underarm seam.	Monograms should be 1/4 to 3/8 inch tall.
Shirt Cuffs Long Sleeves	Fold cuff in half, starting with button at one side, and buttonhole on the other side.  Edge of monogram should be 1 inch from the center of cuff, towards the buttonhole.  (Center of monogram should be 1 3/8 inches from the center).  The bottom of the monogram should be 1/4 inch above the stitching at the bottom edge of the cuff.	Monogram lettering should be 1/4 to 3/8 inch tall.
Shirt Euro Tail  (Front Bottom)	Bottom of design should be 1 1/2 inch above stitching for lower shirt hem.  Center of design should be 2/3rds of the way from the center front to the outside left edge (approximately 7 inches from center).	Lettering should be 1/4 to 1/2 inch tall.

Embroidery Placement Chart for Shirts - Part 2

Embroidery Placement Chart for Shirts - Part 2
ITEM	PLACEMENT	OTHER CONSIDERATIONS
T-shirt or Sweatshirt Center Front Full Front Design	Center the design from left to right. Place top of design 2-4 inches down from the neckline.	Bottom of design shouldn't go below the armpit, but on a very large design, it should be high enough so it won't be hidden if shirt is tucked in.
Ladies Sweater,  Jacket, Dress, or 2 piece outfit with irregularly placed large design.	Large irregularly placed designs usually follow a diagonal or large gentle S curve or C curve.  Frequently, the design will start at the right shoulder, come across the bodice, ending at the left waist, or curving at center of the bodice and ending at the left waist.  The design may also curve at the waist, and come back across the top of the pants or skirt.  Embroidery sewn on one side, placed off center, and carried down the leg, creates a vertical line.	The embroidery should be placed so it enhances the shape of the garment, flatters the wearer, and doesn't get in the way of movement.
Shirt Center Back	Center the design from left to right.   Center top to bottom with the middle of the armholes, from shoulder seam to armpit.  Design should be placed lower on sweatshirts with hoods.	Back designs look best when placed between the shoulder blades, but it's okay for design to go below armpits.