Accordion pleats are very fine knife pleats, which are used on skirts, flounces on skirt hems and sleeves, which make them moves like an accordion. Fabric pieces are treated in a pleater, which is not easy because it difficult to calculate how much fabric is needed for what depth of pleat, so typically plenty of fabric is pleated. It is required to turn up the hem first by not joining the seams. There are two types of pleats; synthetic fibers have permanent pleats whereas natural fibers have temporary pleats. Accordion pleated fabric is available by the meter and unpleated fabric is also available with some attractive effects. Series of rubber bands are placed around the pleated section when washing the garment, wash is done with hands without squeezing.
A short pleat in the hem of a straight skirt is meant to provide room for easy and free movement. It is an inverted pleat having a separate backing piece. The pleat being short the backing doesn't extend up to the waist. Construct as for an inverted pleat shorter than about 20 cm (8 in.)
- Turn up the hem of the skirt and the pleat backing and finish both hems, before attaching the backing to the pleat.
- Attach the backing to the pleat.
- Insert leveling of hems by inserting firm tacks.
- Machine from the hem, through all layers up to the top of the backing.
- Stitch both sides in this direction.
- Attach the top edge of the pleat backing by working herringbone stitch over the edge and picking up small stitches in the fabric of the pleat.
A single fold pressed to one side in the fabric is Knife pleat. They can be single, in pairs or groups or co continuous like in a kilt. Steps for a single Pleat:
- Fold the fabric.
- In case of a deep pleat, the skirt may be cut in two sections. In this case the pieces right sides together, tack on the pleat line;if desired stitch to the release point.
- Press well.
- For proper hemline, stop the neatening well above hemline to complete after the hem has been turned up.
Steps for skirts with knife pleats all around (It is not difficult to establish the skirt length and finish the hem completely before inserting the pleats).
- Matching tailor's tack lines, work from the right side fold and tack from hem to waist.
- Press well with hot ironusing damp cloth.
- Do it now if the pleats are to be stitched down for part of the way.
- Hold the pleats in position if the back folds are machined at this stage.
- Now start hemming to stitch up to the waist.
For only a few knife pleats in the skirt(Best way is to set them in position from the wrong side).
- With the fabric wrong side up and matching up the tailor's tacks, fold over each pleat.
- Tack from hem to waist.
- Do stitching the pleats for part of theirlength now on the wrong side.
- Press well from the right side to ensure all pleats facing in the correct direction.
- Finish the skirt before turning up the hem.
- For this remove the tacks in the pleats, open out the fabric, then turn up and finish the hem.
- Refold the pleats, and hold them in position with a double basting stitch through the hem.
- To prevent a ridge showing, press placing a towel against the inner edge.
- Stitch down the folds on the backs of the pleats and through the hem to keep the pleats in position.
- In case the pleat is in two pieces (if there is an actual seam at the back of the pleat instead of a fold), tack the pleat in the usual way i.e. press, and stitch the seam.
- With the seam trimmed and pressed open within the hem, turn up the hem.
- Neaten the turning above the hem.
- And stitch the fold of the pleat through the hem.
The feature of Pleats is attractive in style providing room for movement as well. One may held it from a specific position from one end only, from the center back of a person's t-shirt; it can be held from both the ends for instance pleat inserted from down towards the center of a patch pocket; it may be stitched in place for part of its length and also could be held at one end, in a skirt. The undressed pleats are the pleats held on one end but not pressed or stitched. The types of Pleats are three in number: Box pleats, Knife Pleats, Inverted pleats. The characteristic of all the above mentioned types may simple folds of fabric. Simply by allowing sufficient additional fabric where it is needed and folding it into a place, a pleat can be added to any garment.
Put the pleats in a position whenever it seems possible in the fabric before doing any other process: To ensures that none of the width is borrowed to make the garment big enough the fitting of the garment pleat would be tacked down.
Before removing the pattern or sequence one should mark all pleat lines and hemlines. Some of the skirt pleat has the back part of the pleat as an extra piece to be attached. Enabling the pleat to be slightly on the bias of the fabric, this mostly improves the hang. To economies the fabric, one can eagle it and cut from a narrow width; the act makes it possible to use a contrasting fabric.
Small Stitch Length for Hand Sewing
Stitching with hand sewn is not as strong as sewing from a machining can be, the hand stitching therefore should be as small as possible, to diminish the gaps.
For Excellent, Controlled Stitch Length Invest in a Guide
A guide may prove to be helpful in the form of a row of machining to fold into, otherwise controlling the stitches to keep them small and even/leveled. A single large stitch can prove to be a weak point. To make stitches smaller one can use a small needle.
Heavier Thicker Stitches = Longer Stitches
Collectively longer stitches are required for a thicker fabric, when gaps appear and seam is pulled it should be made smaller.
Smaller Stitch Length is Not Always the Best Option
But on the other extreme a too tiny/small stitch will be responsible of having wrinkles especially in fabrics such as crepe, which are spongy. Wearing would be a cause for wrinkling on silk or viscose or any other soft fabric when stitching is too short.
Stitch Length and Lining
Lining should be sewn with a stitch which appears to have a fair length for the weight of fabric due to the reason that it is a weak fabric and too many tiny holes will split into a tear quite rapidly. Lastly stitches on all the fabrics are required to be small enough so that it can bed into the fabric and not lie on top.
A straight, loose Japanese garment with wide sleeves cut in one with the main part. This traditional garment has been adapted for western wear and features such as the wrap·front, wide belt and sleeve line, are often incorporated into other sytles.
A kimono sleeve is frequently used; it is an extension of the bodice and the shoulder seam may be either horizontal or following the slope of the arm. If it slopes, arm movement may be restricted but this is corrected by inserting an underarm gusset. A true kimono sleeve is loose at the wrist often with tum-back cuff, but we frequently vary this by adding fitted cuffs, still referring to this loose full armhole as kimono.
In hand sewing this term means to repair in places where a seam has split and is not worth to take out machine to re-stitch because many times it is just a short row of stitch, which makes it awkward to reach machine every time, which makes half back stitching more effective. To repair the split, a small needle with a short piece of thread is needed. Firstly a knot is made, then in order to repair the split the needle should be overlapping the machining, one stitch by one stitch. At the end of this pattern needle should be pull out and thread needs to be tighten firmly in this process, it looks untidy but it safe time in repairing an open seam. Back stitch is mostly used in embroidering geometric designs on weave linens and canvas. A right to left work is used on embroidery, by taking the stitch from fabric and then back stitch, half the length of the first stitch to where the needle was inserted the first. By next stitch, take the needle to the first stitch so that when the next stitch is taken it must of the same length as the previous one.
The term is used for elastic and crisp ribbons having a pronounced weft rib. Lord Petersham was the person to whom this term was named after.
There exist two relatively different types of petersham ribbons:
- Millinery Petersham:
This ribbon is particularly used to trim ladies hats and also is widely used in readymade clothes.
- Skirt Petersham:
These ribbons are hard, solid and heavierenabling it to prevent roll and maintaining the shape of the waistband.
- Curved Petersham:
Polyester fiber and woven are the things from which Petersham is made and is not affected by any kind of washing. The product is available in white or black 2.5 em(1 in). wide. The prepacks contain 1 meter including a fiat hook and bar of the same size (width) as the petersham, to the reason that it can be opened to the end, otherwise the petershamcan be bought by the meter. The shorteredge of the length of the peteshamknown as the concave fits the waist, and the longer edge is below the waist known as convex. The major benefits gained from a curved petersham are comfortand the ability that it is waist shaped and does not crease, roll or ride up.
The product curved petersham can also be used for inside waistbands which will enable us to make them not only comfortable but also curved: on the inner side of the belts; they can be placed or attached to the top of trouser or skirts as a finish: and are functional on other parts of the body where curved petershamis needed, for example upside down in the band of a bikini top.
A prototype/pattern carrying many sizes. There exist several lines and normally it takes the form of one tissue with the pattern lines while the inner line indicates the smallest in size. The distance between the lines varies/fluctuate as they are carefully graded; importantly it is to follow the distinct line with your size while trimming the pieces of pattern. The multi-sized patterns carries some benefits such as figure variations which can be developed step by step proceedings from one particular size towards the subsequently appropriate point, another benefit is that users of different sizes have the facility to share one pattern. Some pattern based companies develop a particular type of multi-size design. Burda for instance can produce all patterns in two to three sizes. To avoid confusion, the maximum number of sizes are usually four.
Convertible collar is a collar which can be used in many ways such as on shirt style blouses, jackets, dresses and coats registering as a traditional collar in a reverse manner as can be worn closed or open up to the neck. Wearing it has some advantages such as one can wear a shirt along with a tie or can wear as opened or buttoned up coat.
Convertible Collar Closed
Convertible Collar Opened
If one does not want the button and the button hole to be visible while it is worn open, he/she can fasten it at the neck with a thread loop on the corner of the lapel and with a small button under the collar. the under layer contains a button and a button hole of a double breasted coat for it then can be used to have a button hole in each lapel when it is worn open.